Width: 2.6M-3.6m 8.5ft-11.5ft
Deepth: 2.3m-4.3m 7.5ft-14ft
Fence height: 1.4m (4ft7inch)
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Friday, July 22, 2011
Use Trellis for Screening
Use Trellis for Screening
One of the popular uses of trellis today is to use trellis panels as screening to provide privacy. Trellis screening is great by a deck or patio as it provides some privacy but also allows light through to create a pleasant dappled shade. In the example shown, this custom made trellis screen provides the owners of this property some privacy while sitting on their front patio, instead of being on show to anyone walking by.
Monday, July 12, 2010
DIY - Privacy Screens, How To by Aubrey
Our Privacy screen project is done, but here are the how tos on how to do it yourself! Remeber, we wanted to build some screens (a) to hide the chain link fence. (Bleh, I think it's ugly)(b) to get some privacy from our neighbours garden and(c) to add some more weight to this side of the garden, as the other side got a full fence last summer. It seemed "uneven" to have all the wood on one side of the yard. Here is the DIY post.
Some have e-mailed me to ask for a how-to on how Aubrey did our privacy screens. My apologies for the delay or non response - the reason is - I had no idea how to explain what Aubrey did! I just came up with the idea, and he figured out, as he always does, how to make it happen. So I asked him to write it out for me, and so here is a little post from Aubrey explaining how to do your own privacy screens. - Linds
------------
STEP 1: MAKE THE DECISIONS
The first step was to make all the decisions...How many you'll be putting up, how tall they will be, what they will look like. Essentially you need to have a complete picture of them in your mind. I highly recommend marrying someone who is very good at the "vision thing", it makes this part much easier. Lucky for me, I did, so the design is all Lindsay (I tend to only disagree with her when the dollar figure gets really big or when something is going to be really difficult.) *
STEP 2: SHOPPING TRIP
The next step was to buy the wood and concrete. Here's what we used to make 1 screen
(1) 4x4 posts, 2 for each screen (and we made sure they were long enough to go 4 feet underground.)
(2) post toppers (2 per screen)
(3) 2x4's (enough length for the top and bottom of each screen)
(4) square lattice (one 4' x 8' sheet per screen)
(5) plenty of nailing strips (in my case 12 per screen)
(6) 2 bags of quick setting concrete per post (We used Rapid Post - a type specifically made for fence posts that set very quickly and did not require premixing.)
STEP 3: DIGGING THE HOLESOnce I had all that on hand, I measured out where the centre of each post would be needed and started to dig. The bags of cement have specs on them so I just did what they said. I dug the holes to have an 8 inch diameter and I went 4 feet down. (you want to get beneath the frost line)
(Because I knew the holes wouldn't be filled right away because I needed a break, I covered the holes so that rain wouldn't fill the holes up)
TIP: If you have more than two holes to dig, don't do them by hand. My hands were silently screaming at me for a few days afterwards, and the blisters were not pretty either. Places like Home Depot and Lowes rent powered augers for less than $100 per day. It's worth it. After recovering from my dig day, it was time to set the posts.
STEP 4: CEMENT TIME
I put each of the posts in their holes and measured to make sure they were the right distance apart. TIP: We chose to make things easy - we made the screens 4 feet in width (the 2 posts 4 feet apart) so I would only have to cut the lattice for height. (Lattice comes in 4ft widths) If you wanted thinner screens, then you would have to cut the lattice some more.
The info on the cement bags claimed that you could simply put the post in the hole, add their mixture and the right amount of water, and then set the post to be straight without using supports to keep them exactly where they needed be. I didn't believe them, I still don't. And I was not going to be digging those holes again so I took some extra precautions.
I followed the instructions about adding the concrete and water around the post and mixing it up a bit it with a long stick but I used my level and screwed on supports to keep them in place.
Before I started the next set of posts I made sure to install the 2x4's on the first. Aside from framing the top and bottom of the screens they also helped keep the posts the right distance apart and prevented them from shifting while the concrete set.
It was a lot of work to move around those bags of concrete, buckets of water, and set the posts myself, so I would recommend having someone there to help. I managed to do all 3 sets in one afternoon which left us with 3 vertical rectangles in our yard. All that was left to do was fill them with lattice. That was the job on day 3.
STEP 4: FILLING IN THE FRAME, FINAL DAY
On the inside of the frame, towards the back I installed the nailing strips. I made sure they were the same distance from the back edge of the frame and went all the way around the rectangle not leaving any gaps (might as well look nice from the neighbour's yard too.)
Next I cut the sheets of lattice to fit between the top and bottom 2x4's (side to side already fit thanks to a bit of preplanning.) Once they were propped up in place I used more nailing strips all the way around pinching the sheets of lattice in place.
The final piece of the project was to chop the tops of the posts off (at the same height of course) and add the post toppers.
Here are the screens completed - we've used planting inbetween the screens to fill in the spaces to hide the fence.
All told, we spent well under $300, I spent 3 afternoons in the sun, and another of Lindsay's visions looked excellent in real life too.
Some have e-mailed me to ask for a how-to on how Aubrey did our privacy screens. My apologies for the delay or non response - the reason is - I had no idea how to explain what Aubrey did! I just came up with the idea, and he figured out, as he always does, how to make it happen. So I asked him to write it out for me, and so here is a little post from Aubrey explaining how to do your own privacy screens. - Linds
------------
STEP 1: MAKE THE DECISIONS
The first step was to make all the decisions...How many you'll be putting up, how tall they will be, what they will look like. Essentially you need to have a complete picture of them in your mind. I highly recommend marrying someone who is very good at the "vision thing", it makes this part much easier. Lucky for me, I did, so the design is all Lindsay (I tend to only disagree with her when the dollar figure gets really big or when something is going to be really difficult.) *
STEP 2: SHOPPING TRIP
The next step was to buy the wood and concrete. Here's what we used to make 1 screen
(1) 4x4 posts, 2 for each screen (and we made sure they were long enough to go 4 feet underground.)
(2) post toppers (2 per screen)
(3) 2x4's (enough length for the top and bottom of each screen)
(4) square lattice (one 4' x 8' sheet per screen)
(5) plenty of nailing strips (in my case 12 per screen)
(6) 2 bags of quick setting concrete per post (We used Rapid Post - a type specifically made for fence posts that set very quickly and did not require premixing.)
STEP 3: DIGGING THE HOLESOnce I had all that on hand, I measured out where the centre of each post would be needed and started to dig. The bags of cement have specs on them so I just did what they said. I dug the holes to have an 8 inch diameter and I went 4 feet down. (you want to get beneath the frost line)
(Because I knew the holes wouldn't be filled right away because I needed a break, I covered the holes so that rain wouldn't fill the holes up)
TIP: If you have more than two holes to dig, don't do them by hand. My hands were silently screaming at me for a few days afterwards, and the blisters were not pretty either. Places like Home Depot and Lowes rent powered augers for less than $100 per day. It's worth it. After recovering from my dig day, it was time to set the posts.
STEP 4: CEMENT TIME
I put each of the posts in their holes and measured to make sure they were the right distance apart. TIP: We chose to make things easy - we made the screens 4 feet in width (the 2 posts 4 feet apart) so I would only have to cut the lattice for height. (Lattice comes in 4ft widths) If you wanted thinner screens, then you would have to cut the lattice some more.
The info on the cement bags claimed that you could simply put the post in the hole, add their mixture and the right amount of water, and then set the post to be straight without using supports to keep them exactly where they needed be. I didn't believe them, I still don't. And I was not going to be digging those holes again so I took some extra precautions.
I followed the instructions about adding the concrete and water around the post and mixing it up a bit it with a long stick but I used my level and screwed on supports to keep them in place.
Before I started the next set of posts I made sure to install the 2x4's on the first. Aside from framing the top and bottom of the screens they also helped keep the posts the right distance apart and prevented them from shifting while the concrete set.
It was a lot of work to move around those bags of concrete, buckets of water, and set the posts myself, so I would recommend having someone there to help. I managed to do all 3 sets in one afternoon which left us with 3 vertical rectangles in our yard. All that was left to do was fill them with lattice. That was the job on day 3.
STEP 4: FILLING IN THE FRAME, FINAL DAY
On the inside of the frame, towards the back I installed the nailing strips. I made sure they were the same distance from the back edge of the frame and went all the way around the rectangle not leaving any gaps (might as well look nice from the neighbour's yard too.)
Next I cut the sheets of lattice to fit between the top and bottom 2x4's (side to side already fit thanks to a bit of preplanning.) Once they were propped up in place I used more nailing strips all the way around pinching the sheets of lattice in place.
The final piece of the project was to chop the tops of the posts off (at the same height of course) and add the post toppers.
Here are the screens completed - we've used planting inbetween the screens to fill in the spaces to hide the fence.
All told, we spent well under $300, I spent 3 afternoons in the sun, and another of Lindsay's visions looked excellent in real life too.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
园子里2010年种的几种花
Coreopsis grandiflora 'Baby Sun'
Tickseed
USDA Hardiness Zone 4-9
Golden yellow flowers with a rusty-red inner circle on the petals will bloom most of the summer.
Botanical Name: Coreopsis grandiflora 'Baby Sun'kor-ee-OP-sis gran-dih-FLOOR-ah
Common Name: TickseedGenus: CoreopsisA multitude of 2-inch, golden-yellow daisy flowers sits atop thready foliage from late spring to late summer if deadheaded promptly. This clump-forming perennial is native to the central and southeastern U.S. It is sometimes grown as an annual. It makes a beautiful cut flower, and its casual habit makes it valuable in cottage gardens, borders, containers, and meadows.Noteworthy characteristics: Golden-yellow flowers over a long season. Fast-growing.Care: Needs well-drained, fertile soil in full sun or partial shade. Deadhead regularly. Support as needed.Propagation: Sow seeds in a seedbed in mid-spring or divide in early spring. Root basal cuttings in spring.Problems: Slugs, snails, bacterial spot, rust, Botrytis flower blight, aster yellows, powdery mildew, downy mildew, fungal spots.
Common Name: TickseedGenus: CoreopsisA multitude of 2-inch, golden-yellow daisy flowers sits atop thready foliage from late spring to late summer if deadheaded promptly. This clump-forming perennial is native to the central and southeastern U.S. It is sometimes grown as an annual. It makes a beautiful cut flower, and its casual habit makes it valuable in cottage gardens, borders, containers, and meadows.Noteworthy characteristics: Golden-yellow flowers over a long season. Fast-growing.Care: Needs well-drained, fertile soil in full sun or partial shade. Deadhead regularly. Support as needed.Propagation: Sow seeds in a seedbed in mid-spring or divide in early spring. Root basal cuttings in spring.Problems: Slugs, snails, bacterial spot, rust, Botrytis flower blight, aster yellows, powdery mildew, downy mildew, fungal spots.形态特征 多年生宿根草本，叶片多对生，稀互生、全缘、浅裂或切裂。花单生或疏圆锥花序，总苞两列,每列3枚，基部合生。舌状花l列,宽舌状，呈黄、棕或粉色。管状花黄色至褐色。主要种类:金鸡菊，大花金鸡菊，大金鸡菊，轮叶金鸡菊。
繁栽要点 金鸡菊类耐寒耐旱，对土壤要求不严，喜光，但耐半阴，适应性强，对二氧化硫有较强的抗性。金鸡菊栽培容易，常能自行繁衍。生产中多采用播种或分株繁殖，夏季也可进行扦插繁殖。播种繁殖一般在8月进行，也可春季4月底露地直播，7-8月开花，花陆续开到]0月中旬。二年生的金鸡菊，早春5月底6月初就开花，一直开到10月中旬。欲使金鸡菊开花多，可花后摘去残花，7-8月追一次肥，国庆节可花繁叶茂。用途 金鸡菊枝叶密集，尤其是冬季幼叶萌生，鲜绿成片。春夏之间，花大色艳，常开不绝。还能自行繁衍，是极好的疏林地被。可观叶，也可观花。在屋顶绿化中作覆盖材料效果极好，还可作花境材料。
Aquilegia 'McKana Hybrids' |  |
| ||||
| Common Name: Columbine |
A series of hybrids that has stood the test of time. 'McKana Hybrids' come in a wide range of pastel colors, many of them bicolors. They are prized for their large, showy flowers with long, widely flared spurs. So beautiful they sell on sight!
Aquilegia is especially lovely when allowed to naturalize in shady, woodland borders. They also have excellent potential as cut flowers, lasting up to 2 weeks in a vase.
Origin: Not Native to North America
至于耧斗菜的中文名称的来历一直未能查到。
耧（音：lóu），播种用的农具，前边牵引，后边人扶，可同时完成开沟和下种两项工作：～车。～犁。～播（用耧播种。亦称“耩地”）。耧斗菜使用的“耧斗”这个词在现成的词典中一直没找到。从形象的角度来看，在北方农村经常使用一种用来耧草的耙子，一般是用一根根8号铁丝，按一寸左右的等距离排列，穿进两根横的木条中心固定成，着地一头专门用于耧草的铁丝则弯成钩，与耧斗菜的花的内弯的短距或长距极其相似，也许这就是耧斗菜中“耧”之来历，至于“斗”嚒，应该考虑花的形状了：此花上大下小为一斗状，于是两者结合谓之曰“耧斗”，尽管形状似漏斗，但未见正式文章中称“漏斗菜”或“漏斗花”。
辣椒
辣椒的栽培技术
1、播种育苗
冬季大棚生产辣椒常因病害发生而欠收，尤其是炭疽病和细菌性斑点病更为常见。为了防治炭疽病和细菌性斑点病，可结合浸种催芽进行种子消毒，具体做法是：先将种子用清水预浸10-12小时，再放入1%硫酸铜溶液中浸泡5分钟，然后用清水洗净种子，进行催芽；或用40%福尔马林150倍液浸种15分钟，洗净后催芽。催芽温度以25-30℃为宜，以变温催芽效果最好，即白天25-30℃，晚上16-20℃。这样比恒温催芽出苗快而且整齐。
播种前要准备好育苗土和营养土。播种后至出苗前要注意温度管理，以提高温度为主，一般以白天25-30℃，晚上20℃为宜；出苗后应适当降温，以25℃左右，晚上16℃左右为宜。育苗期间应注意水分的管理，棚内湿度太大，应利用中午时间进行通风，一来降低棚内湿度，二来提高棚内的氧气浓度。只有在缺水时，才轻喷一次。
2、整地与定植
定植前应翻耕棚土，施用基肥，具体做法可参照茄子栽培部分。
整地后，为了减轻栽培过程病虫害的危害，于定植前进行大棚消毒，具体的做法是：按每立方米空间用硫磺5克、80%敌敌畏0.1克和锯屑10克，混匀点燃；封闭一昼夜后，打开棚门，进行通风；再关闭棚门，提高棚温，以待定植。
定植以垄作为主，每垄定植两行，株距30-35厘米，1/15公顷（1亩）定植2500株左右。定植后应及时浇定植水，以利还苗。
3、田间管理
定植初期不通风，保持高温高湿，以利还苗。还苗后逐渐进行通风锻炼，白天最高温度保持26-28℃，夜间保持15-20℃。随着天气转暖，要逐渐加大通风。
定植前浇足底水，定植时浇定植水。在还苗过程中，若干较干，可于上午在叶面喷水（可加0.4%磷酸二氢钾，以促使提早还苗）。春前定植还苗后，高垄栽培的浇1-2次水即可，非高垄栽培的直到门椒膨大时才进行浇水。浇水时结合追肥，追肥每1/15公顷（1亩）施硫酸铵25千克、硫酸钾10千克。此后根据生长情况决定浇水、追肥的次数和数量。
为提高大棚辣椒的着果率和产量，可采用植物生长调节剂。据试验结果，以2,4-D和番茄灵效果最好。使用方法是：浓度为2×10-5的2,4D，在开花时涂花；浓度为25×10-6的番茄灵，在开花时喷花器。生长后期将植株下部的老叶及细弱的枝杈除去，以节省养分，加强通风透光。 来源： 中国蔬菜网
1、播种育苗
冬季大棚生产辣椒常因病害发生而欠收，尤其是炭疽病和细菌性斑点病更为常见。为了防治炭疽病和细菌性斑点病，可结合浸种催芽进行种子消毒，具体做法是：先将种子用清水预浸10-12小时，再放入1%硫酸铜溶液中浸泡5分钟，然后用清水洗净种子，进行催芽；或用40%福尔马林150倍液浸种15分钟，洗净后催芽。催芽温度以25-30℃为宜，以变温催芽效果最好，即白天25-30℃，晚上16-20℃。这样比恒温催芽出苗快而且整齐。
播种前要准备好育苗土和营养土。播种后至出苗前要注意温度管理，以提高温度为主，一般以白天25-30℃，晚上20℃为宜；出苗后应适当降温，以25℃左右，晚上16℃左右为宜。育苗期间应注意水分的管理，棚内湿度太大，应利用中午时间进行通风，一来降低棚内湿度，二来提高棚内的氧气浓度。只有在缺水时，才轻喷一次。
2、整地与定植
定植前应翻耕棚土，施用基肥，具体做法可参照茄子栽培部分。
整地后，为了减轻栽培过程病虫害的危害，于定植前进行大棚消毒，具体的做法是：按每立方米空间用硫磺5克、80%敌敌畏0.1克和锯屑10克，混匀点燃；封闭一昼夜后，打开棚门，进行通风；再关闭棚门，提高棚温，以待定植。
定植以垄作为主，每垄定植两行，株距30-35厘米，1/15公顷（1亩）定植2500株左右。定植后应及时浇定植水，以利还苗。
3、田间管理
定植初期不通风，保持高温高湿，以利还苗。还苗后逐渐进行通风锻炼，白天最高温度保持26-28℃，夜间保持15-20℃。随着天气转暖，要逐渐加大通风。
定植前浇足底水，定植时浇定植水。在还苗过程中，若干较干，可于上午在叶面喷水（可加0.4%磷酸二氢钾，以促使提早还苗）。春前定植还苗后，高垄栽培的浇1-2次水即可，非高垄栽培的直到门椒膨大时才进行浇水。浇水时结合追肥，追肥每1/15公顷（1亩）施硫酸铵25千克、硫酸钾10千克。此后根据生长情况决定浇水、追肥的次数和数量。
为提高大棚辣椒的着果率和产量，可采用植物生长调节剂。据试验结果，以2,4-D和番茄灵效果最好。使用方法是：浓度为2×10-5的2,4D，在开花时涂花；浓度为25×10-6的番茄灵，在开花时喷花器。生长后期将植株下部的老叶及细弱的枝杈除去，以节省养分，加强通风透光。 来源： 中国蔬菜网
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
种花笔记2011
6月中约了政府的water efficient lawn and garden visit，得到几点建议：
- add compost to garden bed
- add mulch to exposed soil in garden
- pruning general rules:
- cut anything dead or dying at anytime,
- prune after flowering
- no more than 1/3 at a time (lilac)
- prune close to the branch's collar 这个我要特别注意，以前我随便剪枝，剪得离节过高
几个我不清楚的植物名称：
前院的树是Norway Maple 不是native tree, invasive.
树下面是burning bush, Euonymus
树下面的一颗PINE有一侧枯黄，建议砍掉，种别的
窗下面的灌木建议剪到和前面的PINE齐高，从根部剪掉一些branches，boost它长得更浓密
丁香开花后，要修枝，前院和后院的丁香不是一个品种
丁香旁边的sandberry严重被snail 入侵，需要剪到所有被被snail 入侵的branches，看能不能活下来；春秋后去买专业杀虫喷剂。
后院的篱笆墙不要爬得太高，攀到屋顶下面的金属雨槽，会损害雨槽。
铁丝莲（clematics) top needs sun while roots need to be cool，
铁丝莲有3种剪枝技术，我家这个看来是在新枝上开花的品种：new growth clematis. This clematis blooms later in the season on new wood, which is on stems grown in the current season. Pruning is done in February and March just as leaf buds are seen on the lower sections of the plant. Remove all dead material above the buds. （more info here http://laptopgardener.com/?p=735)
今年点的籽（seeds) 五月Victory day，太晚
另外还辨别的后院几种野草，建议把现有的植物养好，再养新的。
另外，玫瑰长虫了，叶子被啃光了，需要杀虫
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